12 October 2011

A big day - a very big day indeed

This road goes no where - according to my Sat Nav it does go somewhere but in reality the road is just a legal right of way with no on the ground presence.  Someone got a nice grant to do solar powered lighting though.

Almond groves I think - fantastic drive

First sight of Etna

N37 E15... Exactly

Confused my Garmin - this road - all 50km of it are not on the 2010 version map!

Starting to climb now.  A little bit of smoke/steam - a couple of days earlier they were considering closing the airport at Catania - apparently there was some orienteering (etnanews.com) and coincidently Lester and Lyden from HOC were on the mountain.

Orienteering anyone?

Now on foot - they wanted so much extra for the bus to the viewing point - I walked - and I got their quicker as the buses don't go that frequently (I was on a tight time schedule if 38N 15E was going to get bagged)

A lot of little tourists on the skyline

here come the buses!

As far as you get - the bus park

Now I am on someone's skyline
Brilliant scree run down - I think it was up in 90 minutes and down in 25

Final bit by cable car

Still on a mission - not much time before sunset

Etna from the North - only 15km as the crow flies from the bus park - but 2.5 hours of fast driving

South of Etna are motorways, airports and big cities but now I felt like I was passing deep into the back country - fortified towns clinging on cliff-sides...


 ... and chestnut forests - driving on switchbacks for half an hour and seeing no other cars...


N37 E15 is down there somewhere - I could hear goats/sheep with bells and the shepherds calling in the flocks.  I have done my research - but the road I intended to drive is blocked off - do I have enough time?

Everyone remember where we parked

Give Blood - go confluence hunting


A very tricky confluence (described here) - not least because of the need to be very very careful as no one knew I was there and no one was going to pass through that bit of forest this side of the next decade



My reward - these are the Aeolian Islands

Running out of light - and I still have to get to my hotel

What a magic place

Tired, sweaty, scratched and acheing

Side effect from trudging through volcanic cinder - you should have seen my feet BEFORE the shower

Here I am at last in the Hotel Federico II safe after my driving travails (see later).  The hotel dates from about 1300 and is located right in the centre (and the top of) of Castiglione di Sicilia - an amazing hill top town.  I was so exhausted after my long day driving and walking and bushwhacking and then getting trapped in maze of city lanes and then parking a mile away and walking up the hill and still then getting lost as my GPS lost signal in the narrow alleys - but the hotel was wonderful and the receptionist offered to jog down the hill and drive my car up...


It is a family hotel and, as far is as practical, everything is sourced from family land or local producers

Anitpasti: Formaggio mandorie e miele (sounds much better than 'cheese with almonds and honey', it was)


Primi Piatti: Ravioli al Pistacchio - you can work that one out for yourselves

Beware - the restaurant is closed on Wednesdays - well that is what it says - but I was there on a Wednesday - check before you decide which day to visit

Secundi Piatti: I think this is meatballs grilled between lemon leaves - you can just see the biggest glass of wine I have ever been served (top left) - home made of course

This is the piazza where I should have parked

Looking the other way this is where my Sat Nav intended to take me through

And here- apparently this is a major street - thanks Mr Garmin.

This is where I failed - and I am glad that I did - so so tired and on the slippy tiles I just could not get the car round - one or other front wheel losing grip

I was rescued by the driver of this 4x4 - but even he took about 6 attempts and at times only three wheels on the ground - he came after me as I drove past "muy difficile!" - some folks did make it but only in three wheelers and tiny Italian cars.

I did get through here but was getting very nervous

And here - when I passed there was a parked truck and I had to put half a tyre over the step

If I had got round the hairpin - this is where my Sat Nav would have taken me...

...Right to my hotel




View from the top of the hill just a wee climb up some steps from the hotel  - I am planning to go back and visit the rest of the island (and visit lots of family run restaurants) - fantastic moonlit view of Etna - my photos don't do it justice though.

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