Leg 3 (of course it has to be three legs)

Glen Helen - which I had pretty much to myself on this wet March morning

 I have been to a Glen Helen once before - where I escaped from my 100% Germanic fellow tourists for a bit of Anglo comfort and quite a few gin and tonics.  It is where I learned that the two armpits of the world are Coober Pedy and Tennants Creek.  I see no reason to demur. It is a bit different, strangely the only "thing to do" mentioned on the national park website is cycling - frankly getting sloshed, wandering back to one's swag and then falling asleep under a million billion stars is a whole lot better.

It is pretty moist in the glen - is this navelwort?

Here is the hotel - it is all about location - and this one has it.  Glen behind and TT course in front.

 And this is what I wrote:

Up over Snaefell - and I am still the slowest vehicle on the TT course - like is there a speed limit?  Locals drive like there is not (on checking - no there is not)

Off to Point of Ayre

Some amazing Lichen Heath vegetation in the slack behind the shingle bank

 

Amazing smells on the seaward side - this family have breakfast on the beach - every Easter Monday - no matter how cold, windy an rainy.  Yum Yum

It is all shingle up at the point - the beach changes with every tide - you can see where the currents meet and you can hear the pebbles moving

The strangest things get washed up

From the far North to the very South - this is Calf of Man

It was a wet and cold Easter bank holiday Monday - the Living Museum at Cregneash had just closed, it was late afternoon and the whole nation headed for the Sound Cafe.  Lots to see in the area and some nice grub before heading for my evening flight at:
  

To be honest I think this detail of the terminal building looks a bit "National Socialist" - when was it built?

All the available evidence suggests 2000AD - if so they did a very good job of making it look appropriately retro

Bye Bye IOM - three wonderful days - go now! I don't think you will regret it.

Leg 2 - of Kippers and Sticky Toffee

Manx Kippers for breakfast - a bit salty but has to be done

Its going to be a grey, wet and blustery day

Mr Norman Wisdom, Albanian hero and all round good egg

Back to the station - which also does amazing breakfasts

Departing Castletown - there are few places you can't get to by public transport

Not a lot going on - but I was recommended to tour the castle...

Lots to see but the heating had failed - and the staff were so, so very cold

The tourist season has yet to start - most places were very shut  but on the train I was told "go and eat at my daughter in-law's cafe at the bowling green" - I did - the food was very good - especially the cakes.

My hire car was not available until 18:00 so I went for an increasingly cold and wet walk round the coast and to the airport - in 5 hours I saw precisely one dog walker and a pink wellie shod family group out for an Easter up Balladoole Hill. 

Now mobile I was able to visit...

Tynwald Hill

Spectacularly located and the original site of the oldest continuous parliamentary body in the world

I had the place entirely to my self - rather atmospheric.  And then round part of the TT course (I was the slowest thing on the road) to the Glen Helen* Inn

To close the day with Sticky Toffee Pudding (and yes, a glass of whisky)

*The Isle of Man is famous for and justly proud of its glens - as I was to discover next morning

One amazing little hill - Balladoole

On a wet and windy walk from Castletown to Ronaldsway Airport I came across...

ahhh - it is Easter Sunday and children have been rolling coloured eggs from the top of a little hill

 Egg rolling is, apparently a christian hijacking of a pagan rite - nice to see that this busy little hill still has a role to play in the spiritual life of the community.  Also on the hill will be found:

A Viking Ship Burial

A primitive christian chapel or Keeill

It is recorded that John Wesley preached at Balladoole in 1781 - I bet it was on this hill

The whole mound is forms a

Celtic Iron Age Hill Fort

there is also a

Bronze age cist.

plus early christian lintel graves and prehistoric flints...

Here it is on the map - so small and all that history

Here is a photo from above

This image (now orphaned) from the old IOM heritage site- new site is here

Three Legs @ Easter: Leg 1 - Plane, Walk, Train, Tram, Tram, Tram, Walk

Cashing in my Costa points at BHX - "we have not seen you for a while in this terminal Mr Williams"

Then off by Flybe to

Ronaldsway Airport, IOM

I believe this is the only airport in the world with scheduled connections by

Steam train to the national capital

Isle of Man Sea Terminal - bonkers design but a rather good tourist info section and amazing that something built in concrete in the mid '60s survives.

In Douglas there is "The Chocolate Fairy" - I thought he worked in O-block-bottom but, anyway, nice (and warm! It was freezing on the promenade)

The Electric Railway - Actually a tramway

The IOM has a rather good integrated public transport network - no need to hire a car at all.

Basic controls on the tram

"Nothings too good for my Louise - get the best tractor out"

Warning - dress up warm if travelling on the Snaefell Mountain Railway.

Especially if you are going to the summit (2036ft)

Summit cafe "manned" by an multi-generational but all male crew - 20 minutes of quiet followed by 10 of mayhem as the twice hourly tram arrives.  I approve of the confectionery display - 100% from Skarbimierz

Back down from the mountain - it is still getting colder.  The power is out on the southbound line and the conductor suggests that I head up to Ramsey and then back - by which time it should all be fixed

Ohh - I do love a bit of gorse - and so did Linneaus*

 *"In 1736 he came over to London for a brief meeting with patrons and gardeners at the Chelsea Physic Garden. His visit here left a story that always comes to my mind in an English spring. When he landed in England he is said to have fallen on his knees and wept for joy at the sight of common old English gorse bushes."

Full story: http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/4cb70adc-5762-11dc-9a3a-0000779fd2ac.html#ixzz1x3GUjC1t


Oh - and my Grandfather and Father are named after him.  We have no idea why.

The out and back journey was pretty but now, after 5 hours in a series of increasingly draughty trams with the wind blowing in direct from the Irish Sea I am chilled to the bone

It is getting dark and I pass up the once-in-a-year chance for a guided tour of Tower of Refuge on St Mary's Isle

When in Douglas you must have Queen Scallops

Amazingly tasty - sadly I can't remember exactly what it was but the Chef received personal congratulations - so surprising to find such excellent food in such prosaic surroundings

This is not my hotel (the Glen Mona) but the Headquarters - which is where you get fed.  Yes - it was army headquarters during WWII - selected because of its commanding view

...and my review - I gave it a 9.6